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Sheepskin Grading
In today's increasingly global marketplace, sheepskin is sourced from many regions around the world and may be described by a variety of names and terms. In our lexicon, the finest grade of sheepskin is lambskin slink. The next finest grade of sheepskin is Spanish Merino shearling, followed by several other shearling sources. In general, the quality of sheepskin is determined by the softness, consistency and uniformity of the leather and fur. The better grades of sheepskin will be softer, more supple, with uniformly dense wool fur and uniform leather grain and fewer to no blemishes or inconsistencies (in either the leather or the wool fleece). In general, the quality of a sheepskin coat is determined by the breed of sheep (there are many breeds of sheep, bread for many different purposes), the climate and conditions in which the sheep live, the tanning process, the quality control used during sorting and matching of skins and the craftsmanship of the coat maker. In our opinion, a ranking of sheepskin quality (best to worst), country of origin and synonyms is as follows:
- Slink (NZ, Scotland, Argentina, Spain), (a.k.a. Zelda, Chervette)
- Spanish Merino and Entrefino shearling (Spain)
- French Merino shearling
- European Domestic shearling
- Australian shearling
- American shearling
- Uraguayan shearling
The lower grades of shearling tend to be thicker, rougher and heavier.
Lambskin slink:
Slink is the very finest, most luxurious grade of sheepskin available in the world and the main source country is New Zealand. These skins become available during the Spring lambing season where there is about a 10% fatality rate. It is not uncommon for sheep to have multiple births and unfortunately many are still-born. Slink is internationally prized because of its limited supply, its velvety soft, supple leather and its featherlight weight. Typically slink lambskin coats have naturally curly wool on the inside which although not thick, traps body heat to keep the wearer warm and comfortable. Occasionally the curly wool will be "ironed" straight for a more fur-like appearance. A design challenge presented by slink skins is that their relatively small size (approximately 2 square feet) requires more seams than larger shearling skins. Crafting a coat from slink is truly an art! The beauty of slink coats is that they keep you warm and comfortable but are not at all bulky and cumbersome like traditional lower grade sheepskin coats.
Sueded versus Nappa Finish
We offer all of our sheepskin coat styles in both suede (traditional) finish and Nappa (full-grain leather-like finish). The nappa (Pesca) finish is smooth and has a shine to it. In addition to a more sophisticated look, the nappa finish is more stain resistant than the suede (Habana) finish and easier to keep clean.
Shearling (Double Face)
The term shearling comes from the fact that the wool fur on sheepkins used to make most garments is indeed sheared to a desired length (typically 8 to 12 mm thick). Shearling skins typically come from one year to two year old sheep. Although older sheep do produce larger skins which are easier to work with, the older skins tend to be thicker and less supple, and therefore not as comfortable to wear. As identified above, shearling sheepskins come in many grades of quality. Lesser quality grades tend to be thicker, stiffer, and not as uniformly consistent (leather or fur). The weight of a finished sheepskin coat will be influenced also by the thickness of the fur.
Sheepskin Care Instructions
Sheepskin coats are meant to be worn and enjoyed. To ensure years of enjoyment, we recommend the following care:
Suede Finish
1. Treat the coat annually (every Fall) with a non-silicone based water and stain repellant specifically designed for suede. Totes makes a good one. Use a non-silicone spray to prevent clogging the leather pores.
2. Use a soft suede brush or sponge to periodically brush up the suede knap if it gets worn (in wear spots like elbows) smooth. A soft suede brush or suede sponge can be used to remove minor spots and stains.
3. Residual grime or major stains should be cleaned by a dry cleaner who specializes in suedes, leathers and furs. Some specialist cleaners do the cleaning by hand. Ask a prospective cleaner if they are experienced with Lambskin suede or Shearling coats. Call or email us if you can't find a good cleaner (we know of a few we can refer you to).
4. Liquid spots (grease, drinks, water) should be treated with a layer of corn starch applied directly onto the spot (just sprinkle directly onto the coat on top of the stain). Let the corn starch sit for a day or two - the worse the stain, the longer you should let the corn starch sit. Vacuum the corn starch off. The corn starch will not leave any marks of its own.
5. If your slink or shearling coat gets wet, do not fret! Get out of the rain as soon as you can and Let the coat dry slowly and without direct heat. When dry, water spots if any, can be brushed away with a soft suede brush or suede sponge.
Storage:
Sheepskin coats should be treated just like fur coats. They should be stored in a dry, cool (55-60 degrees F) place protected from moths and silverfish (cedar closets are good for keeping critters away). Always store your coat in a breathable garment bag (vinyl or plastic bags do not breathe) to prevent the leather from drying out.
Recommended sheepskin cleaners:
www.ArrowLeatherCare.com
www.kangaroocrossing.com
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